![]() One can test, how good his image is for fake engravings by posterizing it to few greyshades.Īn example (done in Photoshop, but is as possible in GIMP): So, we must have an image which is recognizable having only few greyshades. Using plenty of different crosshatches or dashed lines we get more possible greyshades, but we also approach the normal raster halftoning used in printing. If we vary the line width 0.8 pixels, we have more flat distribution of possible greyshades. For example if we have one pixel wide black lines and we vary the space between the lines 0.7 pixels, we have only 8 greyshades + full white - Not very much variation + the step from full black to the next shade 50% grey is quite large. There are only limited amount of different possible line widths or line spacings. This is because the halftoning hatches must be quite dense to appear as halftones. The number of available greyshades is much less than the normal 256. The interesting way: "Adjust your photo and create halftoning with line patterns" Then at first try to trace your photo to BW and if the result is not good enough, get a fake engraving plugin" ![]() The easy answer: "Adjust your photo to have a good contrast. How to make fake engravings from photos using only GIMP and Inkscape, no Photoshop nor Illustrator? Making this definitely has been much more work than example 1. Dashed lines are used to give lighter appearance for quite wide lines. Here the line densities vary and several areas also have crosshatches. There are so few greyshades that without geodetic lines the surface forms couldnt be recognized. Obviously drawing plenty of geodetic lines has been a good alternative to having much more simulated greyshades. Here the line usage forms are 1,3, and 4. Geodetic lines (not common engraver's word, used here because there's no better available jus now) which make a greyshade and in addition try to show the curvature of the surface Hatches where the line density is constant, but the varying line widths simulate the greyshades. A variant exists: The line spacing can stay comfortably large, if a part of the lines have different direction (=crosshatching) ![]() Hatches where the varying line densities simulates the greyshades. The outlines of the shapes - often drawed, but they can be also left out if the forms are otherwise well recognizable The engravers seem to have four major line usage principles: the greyshades are simulated with line patterns which resemble the engraving patterns.the lines are black on white background.I assume you want to transfer semi-automatically BW photos and other greyscale images to line drawings, where Also I assume that you do not want to trace BW images altough sometimes the result could be good enough. I assume you are not going to engrave onscreen (=draw black lines one by one until the image is ready). Obviously the hat is the interesting part. SquareHalftone.png (39.Your example image has also a grey background pattern, which is not a part of the engraved hat. You can get a gazillion cool things when you play around with a simple sunburst. Play around with something in a meaningful way. I think thats the real beauty of tiled clones. You transform the original object and get a cool diamond pattern, that gets even more interesting when you scale it up. You clone a halftone made of squares and then comes the fun part: Heres something i came up while exploring some more ideas: ![]() I just want to do a little halftone effect, not solve the world equation, if you know what i mean.Īnd unless i cant save your technique as a preset, theres no way im coming back to this thread every time and copy all the values, when its so much easier to do it manually. I have no idea what " add a (-1)^n multiplier for shifting n-th row and column" means.Ībout your solution: i think its great but who works that way ? I was watching too much Louis CK.īut you got the message anyway. Sorry about the offtopic reply yesterday.
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